Some cleaners can distort this rubber so it will not be reusable. Another way to confirm vacuum leaks is to spray carb clean around the intake. It's circular, and in the middle it raises up in another circle. The bulb is coated on the outside with a porous layer of platinum. Also notice visible on the other end of the shaft hole is the smaller hole where the shaft and armature exit the body. Guess I shouldn't complain, it's better than nothing for sure.
I found this was not always the case. Too bad you couldn't see which cylinder is doing it. They will more than likely have to clean the intake valves and check your injectors and plugs. Folks at Firestone, where I buy most of my tires, suggested that cleaning solution used to clean intake manifold might have damaged a sensor in the intake. Nope, not able to do that. I haven't removed it yet for a test. I used a strip of printer paper and set the stop screw so the drag just barely let me pull the strip out without tearing it.
I took a brief look at it yesterday and didn't see the bolt. You could also have valve sticking from carbon. The body is just small enough to clear the intake manifold bracket, it's almost like this filter was designed specifically for the Miata. You have to follow the wire and disconnect it at the plug. Heated O2 sensors are used mostly in newer vehicles and typically have 3 or 4 wires.
The last thing I suggest looking at is the afr sensor. See Repair section This is where I found my 2 nd problem. Thanks for your help guys. Check the fuel pressure with the engine under load. For very small leaks I believe it is possible for the car to adapt to the extra air entering over time and increase the fuel delivery on idle, thus leading to a high idle. I can hear the sputtering out the exhaust and while accelerating I get little hiccups.
This is the no power, failed open coil, or connector removed, position of the valve. If the spark plugs and wires are antiques, donate them to a museum, and put new ones on. They showed me the sheet with the exact same steps. You will need to remove the entire battery box to make it accessible. The crow foot screw on the injector second from right injector 2? It may be something mechanical not being picked up in these parameters. I suddenly began having erratic idle rpm behavior.
Now you should have 5 tachometer readings. He reset the computer and tightened clamp. I suggest you also ask any mail order source of used parts to take this resistance measurement before you have them send the part. I read some threads where the downstream o2 sensor went bad and caused weird afr readings, but I'm not sure if they had the hesitation problems. Repeat the full throttle blasts at least six times, but up to 30 times if the cat. When replacing an O2 sensor, make sure it is the same type as the original heated or unheated. This explains why removing the connector at idle normally causes an increase in idle rpm.
I thought at first that it was a vacuum leak but I don't have a dashhawk and the two places I've taken the car to haven't found anything. Sometimes when coming to a stop it will stumble to a very low idle and even stall upon occasion. If nothing you do gets you 0. The transition rate is slowest on engines with feedback carburetors, typically once per second at 2500 rpm. Thanks to anyone who took the time to read this.
I switched it to Mobil-1 10w30 synthetic shortly after purchase and this helped a bit. I cleaned everything up, checked for boost leaks again, and drove down the street at about 2 quarts low on oil and bought more. If it is unstable note the range of values. The silver component is a return spring to shaft adapter that slides onto the valve shaft. Test drive vehicle to verify symptom disappears.